Poombarai - you'll not leave this place!

Imagine living in a village perched at 1,920 meters above sea level, with just about a 1,000 households, surrounded by dense reserve forests, accessible only by winding roads descending from Kodaikanal. This is Poombarai, a serene village in Tamil Nadu's Palani Hills, with a 1,200-year-old temple that binds together its residents, shaping their way of life.

A two-hour drive from Kodaikanal brings you to this tranquil haven. Along the way, vast spice plantations and lush, cash-crop-laden hills showcase the area’s rich fertility. As you double-check the now-on-now-off GPS to see if you are headed in the right direction, the village finally comes into view through thick clouds that separate the hills from the lands below, revealing their enchanting beauty. Roll down your windows and breathe in the fresh air, and you’ll be tempted to cover the remaining distance on foot. You might even hear traditional Tamil verses floating through the hills, adding to the village’s mystique.

Nearing the village at the foothills, the world begins to quieten down – there’s no mobile phone connectivity, the car radio begins to crackle faintly, and village aromas invite you to explore further. In Poombarai, homes cling to terraced slopes, where locals rely on casual labor and subsistence farming. When life becomes hectic, they find peace in service to their temple deity, Sri Kuzhanthai Vellappar. The hills cascade into the lively temple courtyard that is buzzing with children playing hopscotch, and women chatting about everything from local neighbourhood matters to dinner plans. Nearby, the silhouette of an ancient tree hints at the impending change in the season. Low clouds nearly touch the terraced fields, and the temple loudspeaker echoes the verses by the 14th century poet Aruna Girinathar, drawing you to the rituals, as the temple’s prayers and chants embrace the surrounding space.

This revered temple is steeped in legend and history, drawing visitors from nearby towns. The temple’s Muruga idol, consecrated by the ancient Tamil sage Bhogar – one of Tamil culture’s eighteen great siddhas – is made from Navapashanam, an amalgamation of nine poisons believed to have healing powers. Bhogar’s shrine stands in the temple’s southwestern corridor, which according to legend is connected to a hidden cave deep in the hills, where he is said to be maintaining vigil by meditating eternally alongside eight Muruga idols. Neglected and reclaimed by the forest for centuries, the temple was restored after King Perumal, guided by a dream, took refuge in the area, and re-instituted its worship.

Exploring these hills feels timeless; they hold a magic that never tires. A simple hike up and down these hills is never enough. As dusk settles, tiny households flicker to life to welcome home the menfolk. Fireplaces crackle to life and stoves light up to prepare hearty meals that comfort the soul. The inky sky paints the hills dark, and the hamlet slips into hushed peace, with children retiring in the warmth of the fire. You can’t help but wish there was more to the day, and that it wouldn’t end; as you leave, all you desire is to carry a piece of Poombarai’s spirit with you, for posterity.